Introduced in the late 1960s, the Ellipse was inspired by the Golden Ratio, referred to as the ‘Divine Proportion’ by Luca Pacioli. An observed ratio in nature, the Golden Ratio is said to be an aesthetically balanced ratio used on the human body, trees, and more. With the Ellipse, Patek made the ratio of the major to the minor axis 1.618 to 1— the golden ratio, de divina proportione.

The same shape is applied to the pin buckle, which itself is an ellipse. Debuting eight years before the iconic Nautilus, the Ellipse—with its distinctive oval shape—was unlike anything else in Patek Philippe’s catalogs. During the 60s and 70s, the Ellipse line became emblematic of the era for design and signaled an elevated level of taste, particularly given the popularity of function-first tool watches that defined the 1960s for many.

The Ellipse was designed to create a new design immediately recognizable as luxurious in a changing industry. Keep in mind that the Ellipse launched just before the quartz crisis. Patek was well aware of what was coming, and responded preemptively with a banger. The Ellipse became the watch to have if you were successful. Today, the Ellipse remains an excellent value in the world of vintage and neo-vintage Patek Philippe.

This particular Ellipse, Reference 3748J, is one of the most collectable configurations for the Ellipse, executed in yellow gold with a rare Roman numeral dial– this one with the elusive Tiffany & Co signature at 6 o’clock. The 3748 was one of earliest Ellipse references, outfitted with a Calibre 215 manually wound movement. When most think of the Ellipse, the 3748 is one of the first references that comes to mind. Thierry Stern best described the Ellipse in 2018 celebrating the 50th anniversary of the model: “It’s one of those watches that shows you how to make a Patek Philippe. No gimmicks, just purity and beauty expressed through simple design”.

‘Nough said.

While for many years the Ellipse line fell out of popular favor, we’ve seen a resurgence of collector enthusiast interest in the design in recent years. These watches have a charm that brings a smile to your face subconsciously. Watches such as this one are delightful timepieces that stand out brilliantly in a room full of steel sports watches, once again signaling an elevated understanding of what watchmaking can — and perhaps should — be.

This example comes complete with its service records indicating a service by Patek Philippe in 2023, as well as a leather pouch. This piece features a signed Calatrava cross crown, and a yellow gold pin buckle with Patek hallmarks. Outfitted on a signed black alligator leather strap, this indeed doubles down on the 'golden' portion of the the golden ratio.

If you are a lover of Patek Philippe, this desirable variant is the one to get!